Ως “το ελληνικό
νησί των θεών” χαρακτηρίζει την Σαντορίνη σε παλαιότερο δημοσίευμά της (12.7.2012)
η σελίδα του http://www.bbc.com/travel/
The view from the boat is always best: this is how
adventurers, heroes, pirates and princes have greeted Santorini for close on
7,000 years. The crescent-shaped island – the biggest in a cluster of volcanic
remnants – sits in the Mediterranean like an
oversized, submerged tiara. Santorini seems so ridiculously fairytale-like, I
remember on my virgin voyage here I had to blink twice to check that I hadn’t
nodded off on the chugging eight-hour ferry ride from mainland Greece . Titanic
walls of rock jut up out of the ocean – a mille-feuille of colour, topped with
postcard-perfect white homes: ‘frosting on a devil’s food cake’, as one local
baker proudly describes it. Donkeys and mules wind their way up what seems to
be a sheer cliff face from the Old
Port. They head in the
direction of the chink of glasses emanating from a string of cocktail bars
dotted 250 metres
above the harbour – and all sheltering under an endless sky.
Yet the genesis of this magical place is in truth not
the stuff of fairytales – more of nightmares. By rights, Santorini and its
neighbours should not exist. This mini-archipelago is one massive volcano that
has blown sky-high dozens of times in the last two million years; what’s left
above water is the volcano’s caldera and beautiful seismic waste. Each time
this angry paradise erupts, it spawns legends and history, along with a
fantastical geological playground; Santorini is a thing of fragile beauty with
a changeling’s heart.
For me, the island’s strange charm stems not from the
hedonism on offer – and there is plenty of that, with an infinite number of
infinity pools, foot massages in thermal springs and black beaches to bask on –
but from its ghosts. Santorini is the name that the island took in medieval
times, but it was known to the Ancient Greeks as Thera, and before that simply
as Kalliste (‘most beautiful’), because this was once home to what has to be
one of the most extraordinary civilisations on Earth.
The traces of the inhabitants of this lost world are
all around if you know where to look. Scramble through abandoned pumice
quarries near the ancient site of Akrotiri to find their stone field-walls, or
meet them face-to-face on the gorgeous wall paintings in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera
in the capital, Fira. In the Bronze Age, more than 3,500 years ago, these men
and women were the backbone of a luxury-loving egalitarian culture. On the
walls of the museum, they relive their distant lives in colours so vivid they
could have been painted yesterday. Life on a volcano would have been tough,
with little fresh water. Isolation was a certainty. And yet the Bronze Age
Therans exploited their strategic position midway between three continents –
Europe, Asia and Africa – and reached out to the
world around them.
On the painted walls which remain, preserved in
museums in Santorini and in Athens ,
they sail to lion-filled lands, their women wear rich rouched skirts, and
smiling young girls in gold hooped earrings, cornelian necklaces and gauze-fine
bodices pick precious saffron.
Santorini offers not just a glimpse of a lost world,
but a chance to be in two times at once. Volcanic soil has nourished grapes
here for millennia, and evidence of wine presses dating back to the Bronze Age
has just been excavated. Now, vintners in the Sigalas vineyard or on the quiet
islet of Thirasia offer tastes of the type of wine that the ancient Therans
would have drunk. Their two- and three-storey houses, which are still being
excavated, would easily win contemporary design prizes – they are whitewashed
and uncluttered, with oak staircases and snug indoor loos. The houses built in
modern times in the villages of Oia, Finikia and Emporio are not that different
in style.
However, the Bronze Age homes also featured anti-earthquake
engineering – which is where the back-story of Thera darkens. This island is so
seismic that any inhabitants have to be prepared for drama. In around 1625 BC,
Santorini was the location of an eruption of truly epic scale. It is only now,
thanks to new archaeological research, that light is being shed on what a
massive event this was: three times the size previously thought, six times the
scale of Pompeii’s legendary volcanic eruption and with a force 40,000 times
that of the Hiroshima bomb. Scientists have calculated that an eruption plume
stretched nearly 40 miles
above sea level and electric storms ripped through the sky.